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Ottolinger SS 21 - Published by Terminal 27
Since its launch in 2015, Ottolinger has secured its position as a brand that challenges limits - quite literally ripping apart the status quo to compose pieces that question and subvert fashion norms. The Berlin-based brand is the cutting-edge conception of Swiss designers Christa Bösch and Cosima Gadient, who met at the Fashion Design Institute at HGK Basel. While the pair have near-perfected the classic curve-flattering silhouette, their spring 2021 collection ventures into new terrains, playing with boxy, flared, and cinched shapes that dispute the standard contours of clothing.
The raw hems and natural fabrics featured in the SS21 collection signify a connection to the earth. A soft, warm sunrise washes over pieces, while others are frayed, torn, and fiercely tied back together. The natural materials are intermittent with bright colors, reckless patterns, and industrial-like silhouettes. A mix of organic and inorganic, a reflection of the planet we’ve come to know. Stepping into these pieces is like stepping into an alternate reality: colorful, adventurous, and other-worldly.
Ottolinger showcases a masterful balance of tenderness and instability, whimsicalness and edge. The avant-garde garments, worn by the likes of Kylie Jenner, pay homage to timeless motifs while carving the path for a brave new world of erratic and bold aesthetics. To enter this world, shop Ottolinger’s SS21 collection at Terminal 27 today.
RUI - Published by Terminal 27
Chinese-born designer Rui Zhou employs form-fitting knitwear to stretch the bounds of conventional attire and the spaces between. Rather than skimming the body’s surface, Zhou dives past the garments themselves, externalizing the parts of humans that are so often concealed. “Love what makes you, you,” is a fitting slogan, as Zhou’s garments are undoubtedly celebrations of skin.
The Parsons grad launched RUI in 2019 and since then, her designs have graced the runways of New York Fashion Week three times. Worn by artists like Solange and Chloe x Halle, Zhou’s work encapsulates an expert balance of grandiose and ease, exposure and relief.
These striking pieces turn heads while possessing a kind of peacefulness and purity. While baring skin demands a level of vulnerability, there is gentleness amid Zhou’s collections, welcoming wearers. Serene tones and snug fabrics effortlessly wrap around the body like sheer extensions of the models themselves. Zhou’s pieces inspire soft introspection. Tender contemplation of the spaces between our skin and cloth, our bodies and the world.
The muted colors and second-skin fits challenge viewers to discern where the body ends and the garment begins. The draping and layering make perceiving and donning the clothes a multi-dimensional experience. Visual mirages, causing gazes to dance across every thread.
Eyes are drawn from knees to elbow crooks, from hands to belly buttons. Unusual places to harness focus. By utilizing these fresh shapes, Zhou re-envisions how we evaluate the human form and the role clothing plays in upholding it. Rather than using clothes to cloak and obscure, why not harness them to support and accept?
Through RUI, Zhou offers a meditative reflection about the relationships between intimacy and fragility, exposure and vulnerability. Her garments provide glimpses past exterior facades, emboldening wearers to love what makes them, them.
Wales Bonner - Published by Terminal 27
Wales Bonner presses viewers to examine where they situate “luxury.” Specifically, whether or not it’s divorced from vibrancy, leisure, and tradition. An expedition through decades and cultures that may seem disparate on the surface, but upon closer examination, aren’t quite so.
Grace Wales Bonner, the mastermind behind Wales Bonner, launched the brand in 2014 after graduating from Central Saint Martins. In the few years after her brand launch, Bonner received a number of accolades, including Emerging Menswear Designer at the British Fashion Awards and the LVMH Young Designer Prize for her first solo runway presentation “Ezekiel.” She collaborated with Dior to reimagine the New Look silhouette for the Resort 2020 collection shortly before winning the BFC/Vogue Designer Fashion Fund. Her AW21 collection is a continued partnership with Adidas Originals.
Bonner’s latest collection, Black Sunlight, centers on the strands of connection between the Caribbean and Britain. The AW21 collection harkens to the 1980s, alluding to Caribbean scholars traveling to Britain for their studies. Fittingly, the daywear and leisurewear in this collection occupy a simultaneously retro and relevant aesthetic. Smart silhouettes and timeless frames offer an air of tailored elegance, incorporating utilitarian fabrics and drawing on uniforms of the working world. The wardrobe is a passport to dignified refinement while retaining a spirited character.
The interrogation of luxury and Eurocentricity explored in this collection extends itself to a world that’s long been considered the pinnacle of elitism: the University space. Preppy tweed sets, warm knitted scarves, and solid stripes exude a language representative of “class.” Yet, eclectic sartorialism interrupts the conventional, Oxford-esque fits. Internal disruption of opulence. A customary presentation flipped inside out.
Bonner weaves in inspiration from Indian and West African styles of dress. 70s-influenced shearling coats stand amongst airy dresses with patterns inspired by Indian wood block paisley. West African-inspired dashikis, cashmere cardigans, and tailored trousers don parallel stripes. The fusing and intermittence nod to expansion and resistance.
